Slide the arm in place with the spring mounts to the outside.
Slide the spring and spring tension cap into place. **The blue spring goes on the left side as you are facing the brakes.**
Tighten the arm in place after greasing the bolt threads and bolt head.
Repeat with the other side. Remember, the blue spring goes on the left when facing the brake.
It should look like this now:
Run the straddle cable (which is a mountain bike brake cable) through the straddle saddle.
Attach the cable to the bottom of one arm through the guide in the adjustable arm.
Tighten the bolt-on cable end to adjust the cable at the bottom of the brake arm.
Put a 16mm open wrench on the tension cap.
Put a 5mm hex wrench on the bolt to loosen the stud bolt slightly.
While holding the 5mm wrench static, turn the 16mm wrench on the tension cap away from the wheel until the spring peg hole on the cap is straight above the mounting bolt.
Tighten the stud bolt down while holding the adjuster cap at the same spot.
Using a 4mm allen key, set the adjustable portion of the arm at about 45 degrees to start.
The pad holder is keyed for a 5mm allen key so you can hold it in place. The 10mm nut on the back is what you tighten to lock the angle and pad height. Setting the front of the pad to hit before the back (like in the pictures) will reduce brake squeal.
Squeeze the cable around the arm to set the cable.
A little goes a long way. You don't need large adjustments
Think of the tension cap as a clock face: When adjusted properly the spring tab on the tension cap should be between 11 and 1
Use a 16mm wrench on the adjuster and hold the brake fixing bolt steady with a 5mm allen wrench.
To increase the tension, turn the cap away from the wheel.
The best stopping occurs when the brakes feel nice and solid at the lever.
A 90 degree angle when the brake is pulled gives the best combination of stopping power and feeling of firmness.
You can change the way braking feels by moving the straddle saddle up (firmer) or down (softer)
You can also change the angle of the adjustable portion of the arm in (firmer) or out (softer).
We've found that there is no need to set the brakes up a little "squishy" (i.e. using more mechanical advantage) in order to get maximum braking power.
The adjustable arms are used to get the correct angle on the straddle cable as well as the feel correct.
The standard range of cantilever post width is 75mm to 85mm.
The narrower the posts are, the more upright the adjustable portion will be
The wider they are the wider the adjustable portion will be set.
If you are using a cartridge style brake pad (such as the Matthauser pads that the brake ships with) make sure to set up the brake pads according to the directional arrows on the pads, otherwise the braking force can push the pad out of the holder.
If you are using a solid block pad (such as a Kool Stop Eagle Claw) the rear ones can be turned "backwards" (i.e. so that the long part of the pad faces forward) for better power.
The brake pad should be set as close to the arm as possible with a minimum amount of post showing.