Gears Galore: A Look At Current Drivetrain Options

In recent years, we’ve seen a rapid evolution in gearing options for bikes of all types. There are new options that have expanded choices for certain riders, and some options (arguably very useful options) have gotten pushed to the side. Rapid changes in “standards” are nothing new in the bike industry, and they tend to cause a lot of confusion for consumers and industry professionals alike. To clear things up, here’s an overview of your options as they stand going into 2020. 

The Cassette

Over the past few decades, advances in cassette technology have mainly been aimed at squeezing in more cogs. In the 80s, even the highest-end drivetrains had just six cogs in the rear. 13-26 was considered standard. These days, high-end drivetrains use 11, 12, and even 13 cogs. This has created narrower cogs and chains as well as pushed road bikes to move to a wider rear triangle to accommodate more cogs and disc brakes. These thinner chains and cogs tend to wear out more quickly, however, so that’s been a bit of a trade-off. We’re starting to see some mountain bike drivetrains return to nine (and even seven) speed drivetrains to make them more robust.

As for the actual shifting performance, the woes of the 10 speed era have mainly been ironed out. Shifting is mostly excellent across the board. The new radical shift in cassette technology is range. Driven by mountain bike design, cassettes have ballooned in size. Just a few years ago, a cassette with a range from 11 teeth to 32 teeth was considered a large cassette. These days we’re seeing cassettes as wide as 9 teeth to 50 teeth. That’s a gear range of over 500%. The catch is that those are for single chainring drivetrains, also called 1X. All the shifting is in the cassette, so it needs to have a wide range. The only way to get that kind of range before was to use a triple chainring crankset. Why choose one over the other? Which is better for the rider? Well, that depends.

The cassette on the left has a huge range, but is meant for a single chainring up front. The one on the right has smaller steps between gears and is meant to be used with either two or three chainrings.

The rear derailleur has traditionally been used to fine tune your gear selection. Adding more cogs, like having eleven instead of nine, allows for smaller jumps between gears and therefore more control over the gear ratio. Large jumps are made by the double or triple chainring, then the rear was used to find a gear that was “just right”. The new selection of wide range cassettes have much bigger jumps between cog sizes. For some riders this can be frustrating when they can’t shift into a gear that feels perfect for the terrain they happen to be on at the moment. For other riders, this isn’t much of a big deal. They value the simplicity of using a single shifter and will either push harder or go slower when they can’t get the gearing perfect. There seem to be plenty of both types of riders so having multiple options is a good thing.

Chainrings

Chainring configuration has also seen a lot of change recently. We see three major shifts: an expansion in gearing options for double cranks, the emergence of “one-by” drivetrains, and the so-called death of the triple. 

Double Chainring Drivetrains

a modern 46/30 “sub-compact” double crankset

Not so long ago, there were essentially three choices in front gearing for double cranks. The traditional choice, suitable for racers and the manliest of manly men, was the 53/39-tooth combo. “Compact” gearing, 50/34-tooth, was initially rolled out as an alternative to triple cranksets and effectively became the industry standard with its more forgiving gear range. Finally, cyclocross ended up with its own chainring standard of 48/36-tooth. 

Compact gearing worked well for a lot of riders, but never really lived up to its intended purpose of replacing triple cranks. Triples offered the option of getting ridiculously low gear ratios, but the compact double’s 34-tooth small ring (smaller rings mean lower gears on the front) wasn’t actually all that low a gear. 

Enter the All-Road Bike. A growing number of cyclists today want a bike that can go back and forth between paved roads, forest service roads, gravel roads, and single track. That’s a lot to ask and also part of what’s fueling all of this drivetrain evolution and mutation. While the 46/30 has become semi-standard on bikes like this, combinations as low as 42/24 are available. Higher gears are sacrificed for all-terrain capability. Many see it as worth the trade off, but drivetrains may not be done evolving just yet. The recently released GRX series from Shimano will shift an 11-42 in the back while keeping a compact double 50/34 in the front. That’s a lot of range and it’s developments like this that lead people to pronounce “the triple is dead”

The 1X (one-by), or Single Chainring Drivetrain

A modern “one-by” drivetrain

Like a lot of recent developments, the 1X drivetrain comes from the world of mountain biking. Riders who were pushing their mountain bikes to the limit over rough and varied terrain wanted to simplify things and take one variable for failure out of the equation altogether. The front derailleur was seen as the best part to go because when it did malfunction, it could stop a rider in their tracks. Thus, the 1X was born. It’s a little more complicated than just removing the derailleur. Chainrings were redesigned to retain the chain instead of letting it go for shifting. Rear derailleurs had clutch mechanisms added to keep the chain steady over bumpy terrain. This is also where the ultra-wide range cassettes began to develop. Mountain bikes need gearing that’s able to shift to a very low gear and do it quickly. Off-road terrain can become suddenly very steep and having just one control that moves the gear quickly and surely has been great for mountain bikers. They can make huge changes in gear ratio without the fear of dropping the chain off the chainring.

This drivetrain configuration has made the jump to all-road and gravel bikes now, for some of the same reasons. There’s something to be said for simplicity and dependability when your bike is covered in mud and you’re trying to make it up an 18% grade made of soft dirt. The trade off is the range, but cassettes that go from 10 to 50 teeth mitigate that aspect quite a bit. A 500% range is nothing to sneeze at. The disadvantages have to do with the cassette, as I discussed above. Big jumps between gears are not for everyone. Still, for some, the 1X fits their needs exactly. From a builder’s perspective, we just see it as one more tool in the toolbox for making someone a bike they love. It seems to be sticking around and we’ve met more than a few that don’t want to ride anything else.

Triple Chainring Drivetrains

Tales of the triple’s demise may be premature

Well, what about the triple? It’s death has been pronounced before, back in the 80’s. Back then, the triple (a crankset with three chainrings) fell out of favor on road bikes and was relegated to touring bikes and mountain bikes. “Compact” cranks with 50/34 tooth rings, the thinking went, provided plenty low gearing. It was only a few years before manufacturers again figured out that people still wanted to climb big hills on their road bikes without having to stand and mash a big gear, and the 34-tooth ring just wasn’t cutting it. Triples returned to full range of road groups. This is because no other configuration can match the gearing range of a triple drivetrain. That’s still currently true. A triple with a 53/39/28 chainring combination paired with an 11-36 cassette has a high gear of 122.3 inches and a low gear of 21.5 inches. That’s a range of 568%. That means the triple is still king in that category.

So why are so many people willing to declare the triple dead? A triple chainring drivetrain requires a bit more setup and adjustment, but just barely. A lot of people soured on triple shifting during the ten speed era I referenced above. During this time, manufacturers decided to make triple shifting “indexed” the way shifting in the rear was. One set movement of the shifter moved one gear with a click. Well, that didn’t go well at the time. The fledgling technology resulted in a lot of mis-shifts and dropped chains. It really wasn’t fun for anyone. By the time the problems got ironed out, the compact double appeared and people steered away from the triple altogether. And yet, the triple still refuses to go away. Certain riders still insist on one because they love the combination of range, flexibility, and adjustability. Up until recently, it was still the only way to get truly low gears on a road bike. That aspect may have changed, but we’re not ready to count the triple out just yet. A lot of our customers ask for it and we’re going to continue to provide it as best we can for those customers. In the end, we believe it’s worth keeping the option available. The mountainous climbs and long descents of the Pacific Northwest might have something to do with that choice.

We’ve put together a chart to help visualize what the differences between these options are in a linear perspective. Here, you can see not just the range, but what the jumps between gears look like as well. (Thanks to Logan for the chart and his input on this post)

I hope this answers any questions you might have had regarding what’s going on with bicycle drivetrains these days. Currently, we have more options than ever before and that’s not a bad thing. It helps us hone in on what will be best for each individual customer, and as a custom shop that’s exactly what we want. We’re not going to say goodbye to the triple anytime soon, but that doesn’t mean we won’t say a warm hello to the new developments out there.


Putting the bike in E-Bike

Robert and Michael are on opposite sides of the cycling spectrum. Robert is a lifelong cyclist with decades of experience who has a few back surgeries under his belt. Michael is a young guy who likes bikes and just wants to make his commute more manageable.

Robert (left) and Michael (right) and their new U-District e-bikes

On paper, they couldn’t be more different, but they have two things in common that might surprise you. They both recently bought an R+E Cycles U-District e-bike, and they both bought it for the same reason. They bought it because the U-District is still a bike first.

“If you’re thinking about an e-bike, test ride it with the motor turned off. If you can’t pedal it around, you don’t want it!” That’s what Robert said to us about looking at a few other e-bike options before he settled on the U-District. He’s taken to only using the motor when he needs to go up a hill and needs a little assistance. That way, he says, his battery lasts over twice as long. Battery charge isn’t something that worries him anymore. Even if it dies, he can still pedal to his destination. He also suggests lifting the bike up onto a platform of some sort. This will simulate getting the bike up onto a bike rack. If you can’t lift it, that may become a problem in the future.

This abandoned e-bike was spotted by one of our mechanics on a ride last weekend. We assume it ran out of charge and became too heavy to pedal without assistance.

Michael first bought an e-bike from a popular brand that he’d seen advertised everywhere. He discovered quickly that it was useless without a charged battery, being too heavy and unweildly to pedal around under his own power. When he had mechanical issues, he discovered the company wouldn’t even service the bike. That was it for him. He returned the bike and went looking for a different solution. That turned out to be the U-District. He loved how easy it was to ride, with or without the motor engaged. Michael also learned something Robert has know for years as an R+E Customer: R+E Cycles has a long history of quality service after the sale and this includes dealing with both mechanical and fit issues.

Our goal at R+E is to keep people happy on a bike. We do that with fit, service, and finding out exactly what our customers need. Whether that’s a finely tuned race bike, or an e-bike that fits and rides well with or without power, we’re happy to do it. The smiles we see are worth it.

To learn more about this R+E Exclusive e-bike, visit us online or feel free to shoot an email to Smiley with any questions.

Spring Checklist

Spring is in the air!

It might still be winter, technically, but we can all feel spring approaching in our bones. Now is the time to start getting ready for your 2019 summer riding season. Depending on what your plans for the summer are, there’s a lot of steps you can take now to get your season started right.

Repairs

Is your bike looking a little rough at the end of winter? Maybe it’s just been sitting since the rain started last year? Now is the time to get a head start at the repair shop. Pretty soon everyone is going to have the same idea and you’re going to end up waiting a week or two just to get some minor work done. Here’s what you should be checking for on your bike:

  • Brake pads – Are they worn out? Glazed? Misshapen?
  • Disc rotors – How thin are they getting? Are they warped?
  • Rims – Is the brake track getting worn? Is the wheel true?
  • Drivetrain – A stretched chain can ruin everything.
  • Shifting – Is it crisp and smooth? Need new cables and housing?
  • Tires – How worn are they? Is dry rot causing cracks?
  • Headset – A loose headset can cause permanent damage over time.

Upgrades

Maybe a repair is just the excuse you need to upgrade a few parts, or maybe you just want to get that shiny new set of lightweight wheels. Upgrades can be a lot of fun when it makes your bike feel fresh and new again. This is the perfect time to start picking out parts. Special orders can take a while and new wheels have to be built, so always factor in that extra time. That’s not including the actual installation process. Here are some upgrades that give good bang for the buck:

  • New wheels – This is by far the most impactful upgrade you can get. Rotational weight matters more than static weight so saving a small amount on the wheels can really change the performance of the bike.
  • New tires – Tires affect ride quality more than anything else. A light, supple tire can smooth out bumps and decrease rolling resistance. This not only makes you faster, but decreases overall fatigue.
  • Better brakes – It’s easier to go fast when you have confidence in your ability to stop. Sometimes all you need is a nicer brake pad or disc rotor to make a big difference.
  • New bar tape – It doesn’t sound like much, but some new springy bar tape with a grippy surface can both reduce hand fatigue and give your bike a nice clean look.

Check your fit

This is the one riders don’t think about until it becomes a problem. Getting a professional fitting can get your riding season started on the right foot and prevent unnecessary injuries that might keep you off the bike. If you’ve been having issues with numbness, tingling, or especially knee pain, you probably need to have your fit looked at. We’ve never heard of anyone regretting a professional fitting.

A new bike

Is it time? Is the old steed just not meeting your needs? Do you have new cycling goals that require a different type of bike? Do you just have N+1 fever? Few things match the joy of a new bike. Don’t wait until the week before that big ride you want to do. Bikes take a bit of time to break in, so keep that in mind. A handmade bike from R+E takes weeks to build and that wait only gets longer as the season heats up. Let us know if you’re ready to take the plunge.

The first day of Spring is less than three weeks away and time gets away from all of us. Summer will be over before you know it. Make those plans. Map that ride. Schedule those cycling trips. Get that bike ready. We’re here to help with you any way we can so give us a call or come by the shop. We’ll be here.

Some articles and links that might help: