This is part 4 of 8. Here is the start!
A quick overview of terms that are important:

• Fork Rake – Offset that places the fork ends ahead of the steering axis
• Head Tube Angle – The angle that the frame holds the fork at in relation to the ground (same as steering angle)
• Trail – The distance that the axle trails the steering axis intersection with the ground
• Effective Top Tube Length – The measurement from the center of the seat post to the center of the head tube when measured level
• Reach to Bars – Distance from center of seat to center of handle bar stem
• Proper Knee Alignment – Adjustment to ensure that your knee is centered over the pedal spindle
• Seat Tube Angle – The angle of the seat tube in relation to the ground
• Toe Strike – How much of the foot interferes with turning the front wheel

Compromise 3.) Sacrifice performance:

If the head tube angle is made very slack, say 68 degrees or less, that will usually be enough to get the 700c wheel out of the way of the foot of most people who need a top tube of less than 53cm, even with a modern carbon fork. “Why not just do that?” you ask? Well, remember ‘trail’? In short, if a bike has a very slack head tube angle, but not enough rake in the fork, the steering is affected in a very negative way. It shoots up to over 100mm on some expensive custom bikes. In other words, you won’t be been doing the ‘look ma, no hands’ trick unless it’s followed by the ‘look ma, no teeth’ trick.

This compromise will result in a bike that handles like a 1966 Ford pickup with no power steering. The bike will be hard to control in tight corners, and just not as much fun as it should be. Having to put so much energy into steering creates pains in the neck, hands, shoulders, and arms. This is all the opposite of what Rodriguez philosophy of cycling is about.

Tomorrow: Compromise the weight of your bike?
Read more about it!